Հաջողություն

Although time has been hard to come by these past couple weeks, I really wanted to wrap up with a couple blog posts.

Over two years ago I came to Armenia.  Now, it's time to pack up and say some very hard goodbyes to some very amazing and generous people.  I have spent nearly every day this week saying good bye to 3-4 more people.  Today is my last day in my apartment. Tomorrow I spend a night with my wonderful host family and then Tuesday is the big day- I head to the US (right in time for 4th of July).

While packing, I came across my journal from my first days in the Peace Corps.  I actually thought I would be able to document my experience but much like this blog, time slipped away.  Here's a couple entries:

Danelle and I in Goris, Armenia

May 27, 2010:
Yesterday was the first day of my Peace Corps journey.  And quite the journey has it been thus far!  I arrived at O'Hare with Heather, mom, and dad.  We said our painful goodbyes and parted ways.  Mascara running down m face, I boarded the plane, all the while thinking, "What the **** did you just get yourself into?!"....After staging, I met my hotel roommate Danelle and we ae jumbo slices of greasy cheese piza, can't get too much more American that that. ...Today was a nice, relaxing morning.We didn't have to be in the lobby until 11:45am so I got my last Iced Grande Soy Chai from Starbucks and called mom and dad. 

James and his outhouse

May 30, 2010:
It seems like so long ago that joining the Peace Corps was just an idealistic dream of mine, that set me apart from family and friends.  Now, I am a part of it!  When our flight arrived in Yerevan, we were greeted by PC staff and some enthused currently serving volunteers (too enthused for 5am).  We got on 2 buses and headed to Zvarnots, ancient ruins.  There, I had my first Armenian experience- the bathrooms. It was an indoor facility but nontheless, a squat, no need to flush toilet....

Training host brother, Vartan and his mom, Lucine

June 13, 2010
Life sure is different here in the village of Fantan! A couple nights ago I watched one of my village mate's help sheer his family sheep.  Today, the village is celebrating a holiday. From what I understand, the family goes to a church to 'sacrifice' an animal then they come home and feast (if I think they eat a lot now, I can't wait to see what feasting is like).




Perhaps I'll add some more later but right now, I must go say yet another goodbye.

Maggie

Dolma-zing!

Our near and dear friend, Gayane, showed us how to make both meat and "Pasuts" (lent/vegetarian) dolma. The meat dolma is pictured above on the left and made with ground beef and rice, wrapped in grape leaves. The vegetarian dolma on the right is made with an assortment of beans and grains and is wrapped in cabbage. It is a tedious process but not difficult. Dolma is a traditional Armenian dish served at large gatherings such as New Years. Find a recipe here or just wait a few more months and we can make it together!

St. Patrick's Day for the Gegharkunik Marz

Our Marz (Region) had it's first gathering together for St. Patrick's Day. We combined the traditional corn beef and cabbage, Irish Soda Bread, green beer with a unique twist....psychic abilities. Each of us had to bring a perfected psychic ability to the party and then we mingled and introduced them to each other. It was an odd idea that turned out really fun! Aura reading anyone?

It's a Girl.

"Female infanticide is the intentional killing of baby girls due to the preference for male babies and from the low value associated with the birth of females." (Marina Porras, "Female Infanticide and Foeticide".)

Armenia's rates of gender selective abortions are only second to China.


Outside of Armenia, it's happening in places like China, India, Azerbaijan, Georgia, etc.


"It's a Girl. The three deadliest words in the world."
Let us stop killing our daughters.

GLOW (Girls Leading Our World) is a girl's leadership and empowerment project in Armenia put on by Stepanavan Youth Center (SYC) and Peace Corps Volunteers. Girls ages 13-16 from all regions of Armenia participate in this program. It starts with a 7 day residential summer school where approximately 50 girls learn about health, gender issues, human rights, etc and develop skills like team building, confidence, public speaking, and leadership. Following summer school, many girls organize educational projects in their own community and write articles about them for the GLOW bi-annual newsletter. SYC also hosts follow up educational seminars in some of the girls' communities. This year will mark the 5th successful year of GLOW and what better way to celebrate then donating to this project. Donations go towards things like housing, food, printed materials, transportation, etc.
Listed below is the link if you are considering giving a tax deductible donation. Just copy and paste into your web browser:

https://www.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=donate.contribute.projDetail&projdesc=305-079

To check out the GLOW blog and learn more about the project, visit:
http://syc-glow.blogspot.com/

Thanks for your support!

Thanksgiving, slightly altered.

Three days of food with Americans and Armenians. Charlie Brown Thanksgiving; Planes, Trains and Automobiles; Grandma's Corn Pudding; Turkey hats; mulled wine; carbs, carbs, and more carbs. Overall, success!

Yum!


Thanks Rachel for the peanuts and candy corn!



Looking forward to spending next Thanksgiving in good old Woodstock, Illinois!

October Update

I can't believe it is already November 1st! Time is flying and I'm trying to enjoy every moment of my last year. Take a look at what I have been up to in the month of October:

I learned how to create a stop motion and make a little video. This was made by my friend Kathryn, my little host sister, Gayane, and I, but mostly Gayane. She is 13 years old and very creative! Take a look!


I took a trip down south a few weekends ago to the "wine region" of Armenia for the village of Areni's annual Wine Festival. A weekend of homemade wine is a great thing! Here are some pictures:




During the month of October, my sitemates Morgan and Kathryn, and I organized 6 seminars on Domestic Violence and Gender Equality and 1 DV event where we watched a film, displayed artwork, gave resources on DV agencies in Armenia and had a great organization, Society Without Violence, come and speak. Domestic Violence education was something I really wanted to do during my service and I'm glad we succeeded! Here is an article they posted on their website about the event!

http://www.swv.am/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=136%3Aribbon-bracelets-in-sevan-against-violence-towards-women-&catid=7%3Aactivities&Itemid=5&lang=en

And here is a picture from one of the school seminars (thanks for the photo Morgan!):


And Finally, a group of us gathered in the NE of Armenia for this past weekend to celebrate Halloween. Rocky Horrow, Costumes, etc ensued. I was a "Freudian Slip." Living in a foreign country makes you that much more excited to celebrate American traditions. (Photo courtesy of Fred)

This is what a feminist looks like.

In honor of Domestic Violence Awareness Month, some of my Peace Corps and Armenian friends and I are working on a Domestic Violence series in our town this month. This week and next, we are going to schools and facilitating seminars on Gender Inequality and Domestic Violence. Hopefully, after the seminars are complete, we will be having a big event to give hard facts on Domestic Violence, present resources for help, show a film, and have art work and a speaker. We haven't really planned too much of that yet but hopefully, as things usually do in Armenia, it will quickly come together.

Now for any of you that really know me, you know this is right up my ally. I once bought a t-shirt off the internet that read, "This is What a Feminist Looks Like." And, I'm sure I've scared off a few guys in the past after insisting I open my own door or carry my own heavy box of whatever. But believe it or not, I have calmed down a bit here in Armenia. Or so I thought.

It wasn't until this week when I began watching my old time favorite sitcom, "I Love Lucy," that the bell in my headed started going off once again and my inner child folded her arms and squished her face while whining, "it's not fair!" I mostly watched this show (obsessively) at my Grandma's growing up and therefore was too young to pick up on the gender cues.

For instance, yesterday I watched the episode, "Sales Resistance," in Season two and this is what happened. Lucy bought a sales pitch on an infomercial and purchased a handy dandy kitchen tool. She attempted to show Ricky, Fred, and Ethel how it could be used to cut a potato into 16 identical slices for french fries. After it didn't work...
Ricky: "Lucy, either you call him and tell him to take it back or I'm going to use it to demonstrate how to cut a wife into 16 identical slices."
Lucy: "Really?" [picks up the phone to return it]

I couldn't believe it! Don't get me wrong, this is still one of my favorite shows; I absolutely love it. And, I know it is only a reflection of the culture of the time.
However, even if these strict gender roles don't exist [everywhere] in America anymore, it is very interesting to have a vision into America's past and know that these tidbits that were degrading to so many women are still real life scenarios all over the world, including right here in Armenia.

On a related theme, here is an interesting trailer I saw thanks to another PCV:

GRE

At present, I am assiduously preparing for the formidable, vexatious Graduate Record Examination. In other words, I am google imaging "GRE comics" because it is only 11am and my brain is already fried. Six more days...

Sepember 1st and Squash Curry

Google "Rice, Squash, Peppers, Eggplant" (or what was in my fridge tonight) and you come across a biryani-ish recipe from Rachael Ray. Also available here:Rachael Ray's Official Website

Normally, I don't follow recipes for cooking, especially for stir fry type stuff. I usually just throw everything in with my favorite seasonings and see what happens. I'm glad that I deviated from that this evening. This is one of the best meals I've had in awhile. Of course, I didn't have everything the recipe called for so I added and omitted to my liking. I added hot red pepper and Cinnamon, and shredded carrots which only enhanced the meal! If I do this again, I will use a healthier rice...it's just too expensive to buy anything but white rice on a Peace Corps budget.




Also, today was "Knowledge Day" in Armenia aka the first day of school. Here are some pictures of my adorable students!

Summer in Sevan

September 1st, Armenian children will dress in their black and white dress up clothes and celebrate the first day of school. Congratulations will be given, songs will be sung, books will be distributed. It sounds lovely, doesn't it? Then, why am I so sad to see Summer go?

Perhaps because of the trip to Istanbul....

Or the parents' visit to Armenia....

Or the wonderful couchsurfers I've hosted...

Or the copius amounts of fresh fruits and vegtables...

Or the beach that is a 10 minute walk from my apartment...

Or perhaps, it's the fact that really all that's left of my Peace Corps service is a mere school year! I will be home in roughly 10 months and I can hardly believe it. Until then, what will I be doing? I will go back to teaching English during and after school and participate in various secondary projects. I will be giving 6 HIV/AIDS seminars in September. In October, I hope to facilitate and organize events for Domestic Violence Awareness month. And after that...we'll see.

Just. Dance.

A couple weeks ago, I was fortunate to assist in a dance camp for participants from the YMCA in Vanadzor, Armenia. The focus was B-boying and Hip Hop. The dancers learned basic b-boying (commonly known as break dancing) moves and a choreographed Hip Hop dance by another volunteer and myself. We also spent a small amount of time teaching the moon walk, body roll, and a few other hip hop techniques/skills. The group worked on self-expression and confidence through dance throughout the duration of the 4 day camp. The final day, they performed their hip hop routine to community members.

With my background in dance, this was a worthwhile and fun project to work on and we may be continuing it in other communities in Armenia in the coming year. Also, I spent the week eating amazing food cooked by some awesome Peace Corps Volunteers.

GLOW

Thank you for everyone who supported GLOW 2011. It was a great success. 44 girls from all around Armenia experienced an intense, 7-day summer school learning about topics ranging from public speaking and team work to nutrition and sexual health. They made many friends and became interested in all sorts of new stuff (peer education, yoga, etc.). The theme this year was JUNGLE; every room and many activities were jungle-themed. We also took an excursion to the Botanical Gardens in Stepanavan to test water, and had environmentally themed debates and quizzes. This was the first time for many of these girls to leave their regions and be away from their families. By the end of camp, most were crying because they didn't want to leave their new friends and this great experience.

If GLOW is something you are interested in funding, please look out for donation links on my blog. Currently, Stepanavan Youth Center, the partner organization, is looking for donations to go towards outreach, follow up activities for the girls and their peers in regions of Armenia. Here is the current link:
http://www.globalgiving.org/projects/glow2011/


More pictures from GLOW 2011 are available on my facebook page:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.798346829773.2258193.38212427

A Year

It's funny how your senses trigger certain memories. A few weeks ago when the daily rain in Armenia began, I started to sense something familiar. An Armenia I knew one year ago. Except then, that smell resembled nervousness, fear, uncertainty, and perhaps, idealism at it's best. Now, it just smells like home.

I've grown so much in the time I have been here. The Armenian people and the Armenian way of life have taught me so much. I have learned that hardships and struggles should never carry too much weight on one's shoulders; life goes on. History should never be forgotten; it is part of us. I have learned that doing the work now is better than leaving it...in the sink, for example. Water, although necessary, doesn't need to flow twenty four hours a day. I can survive on a shower or two a week, and disguise it well. Getting to know your neighbors can save you a broken door or a trip to the store in the rain. Taking care of one's self, needs to occur, in order to care for others. Dryers are nice but not necessary. Children are unique, beautiful creatures meant to be shaped by adults(this I knew, but the feeling has amplified in ways). By pushing your ways of life onto me, you're not trying to interrupt mine, just trying to take care of me in the ways you know. Coffee and tea, bread, and food in general is not just to eat, but to enjoy each others company. Language holds no bounds to friendship or family.

I look forward to year two in which I hope to return so much of what's been given to me.

Support GLOW!

Thank you to everyone who contributed to my Peace Corps Partnership Program for the 2011 GLOW summer school. Unfortunately, funding this program is not complete. If you haven't already, and have the means to do so, please think about supporting this wonderful program! Here is the latest link:

http://www.globalgiving.org/projects/glow-summer-school-2011/

Thanks in advance,

Maggie

GLOW

Dear Friends,

After living in Armenia for nearly nine months, I have witnessed a critical gender gap that is seldom addressed in Armenian society. I am proud to work with the Girls Leading Our World (GLOW) program this coming summer to address this issue. GLOW offers adolescent girls life-changing self-development opportunities in a fun and friendly atmosphere. The girls will have a chance to explore issues they are concerned about, learn new skills and tools to enhance their self-development, discover their full potential, and become active contributors of Armenia’s evolving society. This will be the fourth year of GLOW in Armenia. The GLOW project has already received feedback about the positive impact on former participants. If this program is not implemented, no other young women in Armenia will have the opportunity to grow and change through the GLOW program keeping the status-quo for rural women. GLOW is a leadership program for young Armenian women, ages 13-16. The program begins with residential summer school, giving 50 participants the opportunity to work in a team based setting to explore topics such as personal development, gender, career planning, health, HIV/AIDS, peer education, human rights and leadership. After the summer school participants hold peer education sessions in their communities, contribute to the GLOW newsletters, and help organize regional reunions and follow up seminars during the year for other young women. The project is a strong cooperation of a local organization Stepanavan Youth Center and U.S. Peace Corps volunteers.

Without donations, this opportunity for girls across Armenia is not possible. Please consider donating through the following (tax-deductible) link: https://www.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=donate.contribute.projDetail&projdesc=305-068

To read more about the success of the GLOW project, follow these links:
http://www.america.gov/st/develop-english/2009/October/20091023163949berehellek8.436221e-02.html
http://www.irex.am/eng/newsroom/womancamps.html

Thanks for your support,
Maggie

For the Love of Culture

Barev dzez,

This week I have had several exciting cultural exchanges so I thought I'd take the time to share them with the internet world (or the few people that read this blog). It's the cultural experiences here that I'll remember forever and that make the challenging days so much better.

Trndez: Trndez is an old Pagan holiday. Armenians light fires in their yards to welcome the coming of Spring. It also symbolizes luck for newlyweds, and hopes for childbearing. It is custom to jump over the fire with family and friends for good luck. There is also a traditional dish eaten on this day of popcorn and wheat. Trndez which means toward a meeting with the Lord, is also 40 days after the Armenian Christmas and can now be justified to have some Christian meaning as well. I celebrated this holiday with the Sevan Youth Club.


Saint Sarkis Day: This holiday is all about making predictions of marriage, something I notice Armenians doing every day of the year. Single girls eat a salty treat, aghablit, and go to bed thirsty. They hope to dream a vision of their future husband bringing them water in their sleep. My counterpart gave me a aghablit to eat but unfortunately there was no man in my dreams last night...is that a sign? They also make a porridge dish, khashil, in which girls take a bite and then leave it on the roof at night. If it is gone in the morning, perhaps a bird took it to the house of an eligible young man for you.

Valentine's Day: This western holiday is starting to gain popularity in Armenia, although frowned upon by the church for it's root in business, not religion. I celebrated this day by talking about love to my English classes and telling them how we celebrate this day in the U.S. Then we made Valentine's which were pretty hilarious. How come most 7th grade boys cannot say a thing to me in English (after studying since the 3rd grade) but they know sayings like: "I need you, I want to kiss you, etc." I think that's an indicator of some sort..


I also baked cookies for my co-workers, neighbors, and well, mostly myself. In Armenian culture, it is seen as rude to give back a plate empty. So when my neighbors returned my plate, I was given sweet rolls. How sweet!

You Say Potato, I Say Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.

Hingali - Georgian dumplings filled with meat, cheese, potato, or other things.




Piroshki- fried dough filled with potato and herbs